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[ Sun, 07 Aug 2005 22:09:15 GMT ] [ 155501 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
philh - Re: deck footing filling with water - poubelle@earthlink.net wrote: > I'm building a freestanding deck and failed my footer inspection. > Inspector stated that the footers closest to the house (they're within > 12") were not on firm enough soil. After the inspection, I shoved a > piece of rebar into the bottom of the hole, and without too much effort > I managed to get it go another 24" into the ground. Ok, so the > insp...
[ Sun, 7 Aug 2005 16:26:39 -0500 ] [ 155497 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"Robert Reznikoff" - Re: Laying out square corners for a shed - Actually, I erred when I said 16 X 20. A second look at my plans showed 12' X 16". Using the pythagorean theorem the hypotenuse was 20'. I made a base line of 12" and paced a stake at each end. I then measured a 12' string from one stake and another of 16' and where the two intersected gave me the third point. Reversing the procedure and doing it from the other end of the base line ...
[ 7 Aug 2005 12:33:29 -0700 ] [ 155495 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
poubelle@earthlink.net - deck footing filling with water - I'm building a freestanding deck and failed my footer inspection. Inspector stated that the footers closest to the house (they're within 12") were not on firm enough soil. After the inspection, I shoved a piece of rebar into the bottom of the hole, and without too much effort I managed to get it go another 24" into the ground. Ok, so the inspector may be onto something. I'm in a n...
[ Sun, 07 Aug 2005 00:11:01 GMT ] [ 155468 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
Dan White - How to clean grout - My son bought a HUD Home with white 8x8 tiles through-out. The grout WAS off white but is now black. Does anyone know of a product that will substantially whiten the grout. I tried removing grout and re-grouting but that got old very fast. Thanks in advance. Dan . ...
[ 6 Aug 2005 12:51:54 -0700 ] [ 155459 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
Banty - Re: Central Air v. Window-unit Air? - In article , pjm@see_my_sig_for_address.com says... I dont' mind of you 'piggyback' off my post, this being USENET and all. But it does appear that I've made the statements you're responding to, but you and I were both responding to "nickanspam" Please try an avoid that. - B > >On 6 Aug 2005 09:30:04 -0700, Banty
[ Sat, 6 Aug 2005 14:58:28 -0400 ] [ 155453 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"B-Hate-Me" - Re: Central Air v. Window-unit Air? - wrote in message news:joq9f1djvv2i7ne7dh5eo7o16fpm57haoq@4ax.com... > On 6 Aug 2005 09:30:04 -0700, Banty wrote: >>>4) Money...I don't make any money from window shakers. > > Oh well. Point #4 is my only gripe....The rest is just sales bullshit. . ...
[ Sat, 6 Aug 2005 00:39:38 -0700 ] [ 155424 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"Phil Scott" - Re: Central Air v. Window-unit Air? - "Nehmo" wrote in message news:aIQIe.722$32.375@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com... > If a house currently has multiple window air-conditioners, > are these > significantly less efficient than central air, if the house > were > retrofitted with it? Window AC's typically 10 to 12 SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency).. 12 is not bad... 10 is not so hot. You can...
[ 5 Aug 2005 23:18:02 -0700 ] [ 155421 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
trader4@optonline.net - Re: Central Air v. Window-unit Air? - "Are you still in the business Turtle? 6K is a normal median price. Some are less, some more. You can't touch an Infinity system for 6K, nor even just a 13SEER 410-A over 3.5 tons. " And of course it all depends on where you're starting from. If the house has a modern forced air heating system, it;s one thing. If it has hot water heat, then it's a different story. . ...
[ Fri, 05 Aug 2005 05:25:42 GMT ] [ 155385 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"Rudy" - Re: stupid question about oven installations - our KitchenAid BI oven is vented thru the trim/grillwork to the front "minerva nine" wrote in message news:3o6dnVc_p-dj_HXfRVn-ug@io.com... > So how come most built-in wall ovens don't have vents, as are required > over > cooktops? Those babies get hot. I'm guessing they are insulated > sufficiently that anything touching the cabinet doesn't get hot enough to ...
[ 4 Aug 2005 21:09:27 -0700 ] [ 155383 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"RicodJour" - Re: I NEED HELP - big matt wrote: > me and my dad are brick masons. my dad has been doing it for 45 years, > and me, 12. we are working on this house built in 1923! the brick > jointing looks as if u scratch the wall, and fill it in with a grout > bag. if anybody knows how this is done right, PLEASE let me know. > its a lost art, but somebody somewhere knows, and i hope i find them > soon. H...
[ 4 Aug 2005 12:59:08 -0700 ] [ 155351 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"RicodJour" - Re: Dry Rot Expoxy Repair - jacksf wrote: > The product I am using comes in 2 parts, sealer and epoxy filler. You > flood the damaged part with the sealer until it won't accept any more > liquid. Then you have to wait til it cures..up to a week depending on > how much of the liquid you used. > > After that is done you mix the epoxy and hardner 1:1 and use a putty > knife to get in to where you want it. I am ...
[ Wed, 03 Aug 2005 19:31:13 GMT ] [ 155321 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"Joe" - Heated Driveway - I have been toying with the idea of running ½" pipe every foot back and forth across my driveway before I pave it. The ends would be connected to the next pipe so I would have a big loop when done. The far end would run back to the cellar in an insulated pipe. I have a wood stove in the cellar that is way too big for my house and I thought I would run a loop through the stove to hea...
[ 2 Aug 2005 09:00:55 -0700 ] [ 155261 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
jantonitis@yahoo.com - Question about buried electrical cable - Hi, I'm going to be putting an electrical sub-panel in my attached garage. The easiest way to do this is to run a 6 feet underground section from the main panel to the new sub-panel. I'm planning on using rigid metal conduit (RMC). Here's the question. Does the RMC need to be physically attached to the main and sub-panel (ie. The conductors are encased in RMC the entire run)?...
[ 29 Jul 2005 10:23:19 -0700 ] [ 155089 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"Rich-out-West" - Re: Max Slope for 3" or 4" Sewer line to Septic? - Scott Townsend wrote: >snip< > The Septic engineer there at the county office suggested that I might use > the 3" over the 4 so the cup from the water flow would be higher to help ...
[ ] [ 155085 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"rider89" - Re: Max Slope for 3" or 4" Sewer line to Septic? - I have a couple of plumbing books that are somewhat vague about the maximum slope, but agree on 1/8" per foot as a minimun. I've always heard 1/8" to 3/16" per foot as ideal. On 2" and smaller, more like 1/4" If your grade is forcing more overall drop, just make a ramp with a pair of 45 degree ells to use up more height. Sewer cables go through 45's very nicely. Bill "Sc...
[ 28 Jul 2005 06:45:19 -0700 ] [ 155064 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"Harry K" - Re: Garage perimiter with 4" block? - dbuckley@mail.com wrote: > Harry K, you'll be happy to know that I talked to the building > inspector and told him I was going to use 8" block... > > I would like to thank everyone for their posts. It's good to hear > consistent information. Just a bit more add on. Someone else suggested hiring the job out. I agree if you have never layed block before. It is a tiring, ...
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