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[ Tue, 14 Jun 2005 17:35:10 GMT ] [ 153634 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"Ken Moiarty" - Re: Using 1" thick cedar decking okay? - Chip wrote on 13 Jun 2005 12:40:13 -0700: CC> How thick exactly is this cedar, It's 5/4. CC> and (very importantly) what's your joist spacing? I intend to use 12" joist spacing. Ken . ...
[ Tue, 14 Jun 2005 11:07:41 -0500 ] [ 153633 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
me@privacy.net - Re: Building a simple home that will last. - > > >me@privacy.net wrote: >> > >> > >> >me@privacy.net wrote: >> >> What abt an earth berm home? With a south exposure? >> > >> >Might be a little damp in my neck of the woods. >> >> Where you located? >> >> Just curious > >North Alabama. 57" of rain a year. Ahh...... I see So is it generally a bad idea to do the earth berm thing for humid place? ...
[ ] [ 153631 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"toller" - Re: Using 1" thick cedar decking okay? - > Actually it has much less than half the bending strength. Resistance to > bending is proportional to the cube of the depth. Admittedly it was 30 years ago and things change, but when I took mechanical engineering it was proportional to the square. You integrated the material multiplied by it's distance from the center; that means squared, no? . ...
[ Tue, 14 Jun 2005 10:45:41 -0400 ] [ 153630 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
Fred MacMurray - Re: Using 1" thick cedar decking okay? - Ken Moiarty wrote: > I'm trying to decide whether to go with inexpensive pressure-treated > evergreen wood decking or low cost 1" thick (approx.), radius edge, cedar > (which is must less expensive than standard patio grade cedar decking). I > kind of prefer the cedar option, but I'm unsure about whether it's wise to > go with cedar that is only half the thickness (hence, half the st...
[ 14 Jun 2005 07:23:16 -0700 ] [ 153629 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
cr113@hotmail.com - Re: Building a simple home that will last. - me@privacy.net wrote: > > > > > >me@privacy.net wrote: > >> What abt an earth berm home? With a south exposure? > > > >Might be a little damp in my neck of the woods. > > Where you located? > > Just curious North Alabama. 57" of rain a year. . ...
[ 14 Jun 2005 06:29:05 -0700 ] [ 153628 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"RicodJour" - Re: protecting 4x4 fence posts set in concrete - Josh wrote: > > Your concrete will cure, and your 4x4's will shrink over time as they dry > out. This will leave you with a unstable fence. I've seen the scenario on > job sites, more times than I care to remember. A 4x4 going from 25% moisture to 15% will shrink ~1/16". http://www.cwc.ca/design/tools/calcs/dimension_calc/ Warping and twisting of the wood more than makes up for ...
[ 14 Jun 2005 04:09:38 -0700 ] [ 153626 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
tbasc@bellsouth.net - Re: protecting 4x4 fence posts set in concrete - eds, did you find any loss of contact as described by Josh? I've used the arrangement you describe in a commercial environment. Five years after installation, it seemed sound. TB . ...
[ Tue, 14 Jun 2005 02:52:57 GMT ] [ 153624 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"Josh" - Re: protecting 4x4 fence posts set in concrete - "Dan" wrote > I was thinking it would help preserve a 4x4 post set in concrete to paint > white elastomeric plastic roof coating where the post meets the concrete. Your concrete will cure, and your 4x4's will shrink over time as they dry out. This will leave you with a unstable fence. I've seen the scenario on job sites, more times than I care to remember. . ...
[ Tue, 14 Jun 2005 02:43:13 GMT ] [ 153623 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"Josh" - Re: protecting 4x4 fence posts set in concrete - "PipeDown" wrote > Pressure treated wood only has the treatment on the surface. If you cut the > end the cut is untreated. If you set a post in concrete and leave the > bottom of the post in contact with earth, it will not last as long as if you > put come concrete in first to cap the bottom of the hole. Read up on _ground contact_ pressure treated wood. Each piece of groun...
[ ] [ 153622 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
Matt Whiting - Re: Circular saws: 230 volt burnout - HeatMan wrote: > "PhotoMan" wrote in message > news:Chgre.2547$zm.949@bignews4.bellsouth.net... > >>"HeatMan" wrote in message >>news:msfre.93471$8S5.76826@bignews3.bellsouth.net... >> >>>"TURTLE" wrote in message >>>news:Pr8re.94319$CR5.30123@bignews1.bellsouth.net... >> >>>>This is Turtle. >>>> ...
[ Tue, 14 Jun 2005 01:02:07 GMT ] [ 153621 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
Matt Whiting - Re: protecting 4x4 fence posts set in concrete - PipeDown wrote: > Pressure treated wood only has the treatment on the surface. If you cut the > end the cut is untreated. If you set a post in concrete and leave the > bottom of the post in contact with earth, it will not last as long as if you > put come concrete in first to cap the bottom of the hole. Pressure treated wood isn't just treated on the surface. What do you thin...
[ Mon, 13 Jun 2005 13:57:08 -0700 ] [ 153620 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"Phil Scott" - Re: Circular saws: Which type to buy? Worm-drive or side-winder? - "No" wrote in message news:d8klbg$eun$1@domitilla.aioe.org... > The worm drives are better build and have more torque. The Skill 77 , IIRC, > is the standard here. Bosch has a good worm drive with a top mount handle. I > own it and like it fine. I also own a Porter cable sidewinder which is also > great. The PC saw took a 1 1/2 story fall off a roof a couple of ...
[ Mon, 13 Jun 2005 17:42:58 -0700 ] [ 153619 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
G Henslee - Re: Circular saws: Which type to buy? Worm-drive or side-winder? - Josh wrote: > "No" wrote > > >>The Blade install is opposite for the two saws, backwards if you will. > > > Actually, in the trades if you mount a blade backwards, it's mounted > backwards. A typical configuration when doing retro work and cutting > aluminum/vinyl siding. > > > > That's kind of where I was going when I questioned it... . ...
[ ] [ 153618 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"HeatMan" - Re: Circular saws: 230 volt burnout - "PhotoMan" wrote in message news:Chgre.2547$zm.949@bignews4.bellsouth.net... > > "HeatMan" wrote in message > news:msfre.93471$8S5.76826@bignews3.bellsouth.net... > > > > "TURTLE" wrote in message > > news:Pr8re.94319$CR5.30123@bignews1.bellsouth.net... > > > > This is Turtle. > > > > > > No , on t...
[ Mon, 13 Jun 2005 19:52:48 -0400 ] [ 153617 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"No" - Re: Circular saws: Which type to buy? Worm-drive or side-winder? - Good tip - I should keep one in the case for my PC, just in case I ever need it. "G Henslee" wrote in message news:3h6f4mFflogmU1@individual.net... > No wrote: > > > >> Yea, I own them. I have never saved the knockout. I keep the 2 saws at >> different locations. > > > > > Anyway. > > > > The Blade install is opposite for t...
[ Mon, 13 Jun 2005 23:36:55 GMT ] [ 153616 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"Joe" - Re: Circular saws: Which type to buy? Worm-drive or side-winder? - Checking to see if the oil is at the correct level is the most important thing you can do. I bought a new worm gear drive saw and ruined the gears in it because the oil disappeared. I never saw any oil dripping out but it must have gone somewhere. -- JerryD(upstateNY) Okay, I've got a burning question: For those that use and love their skil 77 worm drive saws, ...
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€ 1
COUNTRY CLUB DEVELOPMENT IN ARGE...

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Belgium
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Italy
€ 35000
RUSTICO to renew. RIF D34...

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N1430327 Construction surface: 8...

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United Arab Emirates
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3 Bed luxury house for rent in 5...


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