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[ ] [ 153678 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
Robert Allison - Re: slab thickness - Bob Morrison wrote: > In a previous post P.Fritz says... > >>It is a little more difficult to send back when the test cylinders don't >>meet compression days later :-) >> > > > That's when the trouble (and overtime for the engineer) really starts! > > I have had to require that the contractor tear out the bad stuff and > replace with new. Finger pointing gets started...
[ Wed, 15 Jun 2005 00:13:38 GMT ] [ 153653 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
Bob Morrison - Re: slab thickness - In a previous post says... > My contractor has specified a 4" thick slab on grade for a new garage > floor. Is this the accepted thickness? I've read that driveways should > be 5" thick and house foundations 8-10" thick. The plans *do* call out > reinforcement. > > Comments? > > For residential structures, I always recommend a 5-inch UNREINFORCED slab on a 6-inch compac...
[ Tue, 14 Jun 2005 23:17:55 GMT ] [ 153651 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"Joseph Meehan" - Re: slab thickness - lelson@bigfoot.com wrote: > My contractor has specified a 4" thick slab on grade for a new garage > floor. Is this the accepted thickness? I've read that driveways should > be 5" thick and house foundations 8-10" thick. The plans *do* call out > reinforcement. > > Comments? Your driveway may be expected to support a truck, your garage will not likely ever need to. -...
[ ] [ 153640 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
Rock - Don't buy from Harbor Freight On-Line - Don't buy from Harbor Freight on-line. They have no understanding of customer needs. They took my order but didn't inform me that the drill I wanted to purchase was not in stock, and of course they didn't give me an estimated ship day. So I've been waiting... I assumed (yes, I know what that spells) that since they were so bit, they would have stock and just ship the drill. Not...
[ Tue, 14 Jun 2005 11:51:49 -0700 ] [ 153638 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
Darren@address.invalid - Re: Using 1" thick cedar decking okay? - On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 11:33:51 -0700, "Sam Wheeler" wrote: >Done that. 1 inch cedar is solid and has no bounce. Think I'm on 16" >centers. > I'm considering covering a concrete slab I dislike. I was going to use painted spf 1x4s on 12" centers on treated 2x4 joists. Should the 1x4s be fine on twelve in centers? The 2x4 joists are going right on the slab so ...
[ Tue, 14 Jun 2005 15:03:45 GMT ] [ 153632 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"David" - Re: Drywall Ceiling? - This is something that we have done. It is easy, and it is cheap. 1/4" needs to be glued. Screw it up at 18" oc, ew (on center, each way) The screws hold it for the glue to dry. tape and spray. It is quick, it is cheap. It is NOT as good as replacing the old drywall with new 5/8" drywall. David. "Dave" wrote in message news:%e0re.220$Pa5.122@newssvr2...
[ 14 Jun 2005 04:11:10 -0700 ] [ 153627 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
tbasc@bellsouth.net - Re: protecting 4x4 fence posts set in concrete - Do you use spikes or the like as suggested by eds? TB . ...
[ Mon, 13 Jun 2005 23:30:39 GMT ] [ 153615 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"PipeDown" - Re: protecting 4x4 fence posts set in concrete - Pressure treated wood only has the treatment on the surface. If you cut the end the cut is untreated. If you set a post in concrete and leave the bottom of the post in contact with earth, it will not last as long as if you put come concrete in first to cap the bottom of the hole. Traditionally creosote is used but probably any wood treatment meant to prevent rot and or water pen...
[ Mon, 13 Jun 2005 18:50:36 -0400 ] [ 153613 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"James" - Re: protecting 4x4 fence posts set in concrete - If this is true, then it would seem that you might be able to treat the post where it meets the concrete, isn't there ??? --james-- -------------------- Even treated wood will rot when you set it in concrete. Pour a pad of concrete and when it sets up, put the post on the concrete and backfill around it. -- JerryD(upstateNY) . ...
[ Mon, 13 Jun 2005 17:23:07 -0500 ] [ 153608 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
John Willis - Re: Circular saws: Which type to buy? Worm-drive or side-winder? - On Mon, 13 Jun 2005 21:40:13 -0000, Jeff Dantzler scribbled this interesting note: > >Okay, I've got a burning question: > >For those that use and love their skil 77 worm drive >saws, > > How often do you change the gear oil? I never have...except for one I got at a garage sale that was quite old-still had an all metal body. It was out of oil so I...
[ Mon, 13 Jun 2005 15:20:13 -0700 ] [ 153606 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
G Henslee - Re: Circular saws: Which type to buy? Worm-drive or side-winder? - No wrote: > Yea, I own them. I have never saved the knockout. I keep the 2 saws at > different locations. > > Anyway. > > The Blade install is opposite for the two saws, backwards if you will. Okay, backwards, opposite, inside out... btw, if one doesn't save the diamond shaped knockout(s) they can be purchased so the blades can i...
[ Mon, 13 Jun 2005 14:48:55 -0700 ] [ 153605 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"J" - Re: Using 1" thick cedar decking okay? - "Ken Moiarty" wrote in message news:v%kre.1667366$8l.1605819@pd7tw1no... > I'm trying to decide whether to go with inexpensive pressure-treated > evergreen wood decking or low cost 1" thick (approx.), radius edge, cedar > (which is must less expensive than standard patio grade cedar decking). I > kind of prefer the cedar option, but I'm unsure about whether it's wis...
[ Mon, 13 Jun 2005 17:39:03 -0400 ] [ 153603 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"No" - Re: Circular saws: Which type to buy? Worm-drive or side-winder? - Yea, I own them. I have never saved the knockout. I keep the 2 saws at different locations. Anyway. The Blade install is opposite for the two saws, backwards if you will. Please refer to the owners manual, page 8, for the Bosch. http://66.77.255.87/Images/BOSCHPDF/1678_pdf/PDF_MANUAL/2610912403%201-03%201678.pdf And to Page 8 of the PC saw manual http://media.ptg-online.c...
[ Mon, 13 Jun 2005 17:27:54 GMT ] [ 153590 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"Joe" - Re: Drywall Ceiling? - I have never heard of 1/4" drywall. Even if they make it, you would be better off using ½" drywall because it won't sag like the 1/4" will. You will have a mess trying to use 1/4" drywall on the ceiling. -- JerryD(upstateNY) You might want to try a plaster contractor to do a skim coat over the whole room. Not really that pricey, and looks great. Bill . ...
[ Sun, 12 Jun 2005 21:56:25 -0700 ] [ 153574 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"Mark" - Re: Outhouse Plans in Grate Demand ! - Ah. . .you must be "The Specialist?" . ...
[ Sun, 12 Jun 2005 20:59:39 -0700 ] [ 153572 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"Roger Shoaf" - Re: Building a simple home that will last. - wrote in message news:1118539198.203407.121200@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com... > > How difficult is building with block? Does it take a lot of experience? > 95% of the buildings around here are stick frame with a raised > foundation, so at least they know how to build the bottom part! What's > the trickiest part to building with block? I would think it would be ...
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