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[ Thu, 14 Jul 2005 22:11:21 -0500 ] [ 154485 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
lithar - Re: Replacing furnace with heat pump - I was surprised to learn a heat pump could last forever... AL Steve Scott wrote: > The poster with his thumb rules is clueless. You need to have a heat > loss/gain to start. > > On Fri, 15 Jul 2005 00:39:28 GMT, "Joe" wrote: > > >>So an average 2000 sq. ft. home @ $3,000 per ton would be $12,000 for a heat >>pump. >>Can you explain why anyo...
[ Thu, 14 Jul 2005 19:03:19 -0700 ] [ 154483 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"PrecisionMachinisT" - Re: Replacing furnace with heat pump - "TURTLE" wrote in message news:kHEBe.74256$ho.13391@bignews6.bellsouth.net... > > put him in your Kill File works good too. > You done tried that and works just great then, eh ? -- SVL . ...
[ 14 Jul 2005 16:00:47 -0700 ] [ 154474 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"robrjt" - Re: Replacing furnace with heat pump - check out these guys : http://www.wholesaleac.com . ...
[ Thu, 14 Jul 2005 22:00:58 GMT ] [ 154472 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"Fred" - Re: Home termite remedy? - "Maren Purves" wrote in message news:d3hhu0$ilq$1@news.hawaii.edu... > Elmo wrote: > > Maren Purves wrote: > > That's all we had so I'm guessing that your knowledge of the life-cycle > > of subterranean termites is somewhat less than that of a professional in > > an area where they are ubiquitous. > > probably , on subterranean termites all I kn...
[ Thu, 14 Jul 2005 16:12:35 -0500 ] [ 154467 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
Duane Bozarth - Re: Wood Staricase Repar, How? - Nehmo wrote: > > I have an ornate wood interior staircase that is several decades old. > Many of the railing joints are loose to one degree or another, and I'm > going to make them more solid. It would be chore to disassemble & > reassemble the entire railing assembly to repair, so I'm trying to come > up with another method. > I've never done this, but is it a reasonable idea to dr...
[ Thu, 14 Jul 2005 10:09:18 -0600 ] [ 154463 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
drew@revolt.poohsticks.org (Drew Eckhardt) - Re: Garage height...8 feet or 10 feet? - In article <1121256710.216665.103440@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, wrote: >anybody out there do 8' and really regret it? My classic Land Cruiser FJ40 will not clear a standard door on an 8' garage with the ski rack on. -- Home Page In 1913 the inflation adjusted (in 2003 dollars) exemption for single people ...
[ Thu, 14 Jul 2005 10:34:59 -0500 ] [ 154461 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
HerHusband - Re: Garage Pad and concrete block - > how did you connect the 8' sections together? Each section consisted of a 2x6 pressure treated sole plate, a 2x6 top ...
[ Thu, 14 Jul 2005 09:26:41 -0500 ] [ 154459 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
gary - Re: Cutting Silestone countertop - PipeDown wrote: > Diamond wet saw preferrably with a larger blade and big enough to handle > your work piece. You can go cheap and get a circular saw style but I can't > guarantee results. That's what I was afraid of. > > Whatever you do, make a practice cut less than the 18" you need to remove. Absolutely. May just recommend they find someone who can cut it for them. Th...
[ 14 Jul 2005 06:05:16 -0700 ] [ 154456 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
dbuckley@mail.com - Re: Garage height...8 feet or 10 feet? - Sold on 10ft. Thanks all for the great responses. My new plan is to lay 2 courses of 8" concrete block and then use standard 8ft studs and work with 8ft sections of wall so I can tilt them up myself. I will use morter to lay the block, screen after first course and then fill the second course with concrete (or morter?) with j bolts. Do I need to fill each block on the second course...
[ Wed, 13 Jul 2005 23:53:32 GMT ] [ 154449 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"PipeDown" - Re: Cutting Silestone countertop - Diamond wet saw preferrably with a larger blade and big enough to handle your work piece. You can go cheap and get a circular saw style but I can't guarantee results. Whatever you do, make a practice cut less than the 18" you need to remove. "gary" wrote in message news:juSdnaqRZIwEgEjfRVn-iQ@gvtc.com... > My daughter and son in law are remodeling and have ...
[ Wed, 13 Jul 2005 23:43:02 GMT ] [ 154447 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"Ken Moiarty" - Re: Curious... Question about softwood lumber grades... - "George" wrote in message news:42d4e971$1_1@newspeer2.tds.net... > [...] Nope, concession to reality. Cheap wheel barrows seldom outlast > their handles. ...
[ Wed, 13 Jul 2005 20:35:22 GMT ] [ 154440 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
kzinNOSPAM99@yahoo.com - Re: How do you know if your contractor is doing a good job? - On 13-Jul-2005, "ANDY WIERSMA" wrote: > I am a superintendent for a large Public Works Contractor > you can't judge > skill and qualifications by looks or their truck. That is > silly. I didn't mean their actual truck. But how their tools are arranged within in it, the condition of those tools etc. It's a generalization sure but more conscientious c...
[ Wed, 13 Jul 2005 18:53:37 GMT ] [ 154434 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"ANDY WIERSMA" - Re: Curious... Question about softwood lumber grades... - As a contractor I can tell you Home Depot and Lowe's are by far the last place I "choose" to shop. This problem with the replacements is typical. In my case I now just buy 1" rigid steel pipe and drill holes in them. I am a contractor superintendent and use one on a regular basis and just really ...
[ 13 Jul 2005 08:45:11 -0700 ] [ 154425 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
klutz347@gmail.com - Shed Roof - Hi all, I have a shed that is approx. 35 years old. I would love to get rid of it and build a new, larger one, but due to being laid off and low funds, I have to repair this one to make it last for a few more years. The major problem with it is the roof. It is probably original by looking at it. The asphalt shingles are deteriorated badly and some are missing. It needs to be w...
[ Wed, 13 Jul 2005 10:11:12 -0500 ] [ 154423 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
HerHusband - Re: Garage Pad and concrete block - > I'm building a 24 x 28 garage/shop and would like to have more than an > 8 foot ceiling height in it. It's going to be a 4" monolithic pad and > I was thinking of laying 1 or 2 courses of 8" concrete block and > building with standard studs to keep from doing lots of cutting. One > corner of the pad will be about 16" - 20" below grade, but I won't be > backfilling around it, so I thi...
[ Wed, 13 Jul 2005 14:45:33 GMT ] [ 154421 ] [ alt.building.construction ] [ view full article ]
"Edwin Pawlowski" - Re: Garage height...8 feet or 10 feet? - wrote in message > the decision of 8' or 10' ceiling height. I know more space is > generally better, but if the space is for casual car repair and wood > working, is 10' really needed? anybody out there do 8' and really > regret it? I have a detached garage that is 9' I would never think about anything less. Handling lumber, clearance for the door opener...
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